Autumn-Winter 2012/13 – Frida Giannini combined the old with the new in Gucci’s AW 2012 collection. In her own words she wanted to convey a poet, not the formal 19th century wordsman, but something more grungy and effortless, perhaps a rock lyricist? The colours and fabrics were typical of ageing rockers but the shapes and silhouettes she created were young and fresh; skinny trousers in maroon velvet and thick baggy jumpers worn over more formal suits giving it an edge. She showed prints in floral and jacquard, and tapestry on jackets and weekend bags like old curtains, giving a creative twist to a plain cut. There were nods to the 1970s mod look with military jackets and slim trousers on whippet thin models, coupled with riding boots this created a more gentlemanly grunge. She cited the 1995 film Total Eclipse as inspiration, in which Leonardo di Caprio plays Arthur Rimbaud, a doomed poet who falls for his married mentor Paul Verlaine. There is definitely a sense of doom and destruction to this arty yet gentlemanly collection.