Yves Saint Laurent
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Autumn-Winter 2012/13 – Stefano Pilati showed his AW 2012 collection at the Sarbonne in front of a backdrop of smudged chalk words of Warhol, to a soundtrack of a discussion with Sam Wagstaff, the American curator and collector. These references to art were unmissable and gave one the impression of being at a gallery. The clothes, however, told a different story, one of sex and power, of seductive luxury. Again the suit was championed in this collection, Pilati showing a darker side to it keeping to black, grey and white, but using skins and buckles. Large gold metal straps on the boots and shoes and subtle uses of mesh, leather paneling and stud buttons gave the look of an assassin, a predator, a man who has all the answers but no one is asking the questions. The refined man of the label was not lost but in this collection seduction is his game and I want to play.