Maison Margiela Women Spring Summer 2016 –
‘Futuristic’ was the key word at the Maison Margiela SS16 ready-to-wear collection, with John Galliano’s designs gravitating the imagination towards a sci-fi theme. The designs were at once prim and galactic – elbow length gloves and suits on one model, a deconstructed sleeveless cricket jumper with a cling film layer at the bottom and worn just with fishnet tights on another (fishnets were also worn over shoes!) – echoing Galliano’s SS15 collection of contrasts, where the luxurious and the raw coexisted.
The clothes were experimental in shape and texture; white fishnet sleeves and structured tops were paired with mid length skirts with silver motifs appliqued onto them. In fact, much of the focus was on the array of skirts in differing fabrics and colours – all with fishnet tights and pointed white shoes. A stand out piece from the collection was the pastel green coat with silver embellishments, and the gauzy film headpieces that were at once bizarre and fabulous. An innovative way of carrying a backpack was formed by the thin belts made of satin that were fastened into bows on the waistline and on the chest.
Space – age silver and white was key at the opening of the show, which progressed to a wider palette of blue undertones and luxurious gold silk – aside from a jolt of lime green tailoring. Models’ eyes were decorated with lashings of shiny silver and zig zagged with electric blue, and as a subversion of the prim, hair was kept to updos, and pastel coloured beehives reigned. True to Galliano’s tradition of bending gender roles, men were also cast to model the clothes, supplementing the essence of otherworldliness and rebellion against the norm within his collection.
Maison Margiela Women Spring Summer 2016