PFW: retro protest chic at Chanel

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This season the brand’s classic tweed bouclé came in wide-lapel double-breasted suiting with wide-leg pants, which were worn with colorful dip and tie-dye shirts with contrasting white collars (à la Lagerfeld). The famous Parisian luxury brand was infected with the spirit of May 1968, with models and guests hosted inside a mock-up of the streets of the French capital.  

There was nod to the art scene with a paint-spot effect, and more hippie-protest chic with peace signs and Chanel logos on army green bags, while other accessories included square briefcases and clutches. Shoe choices ranged from low slip-ons and knee-high boots with colored prints to gold peep-toe sandals with a lace-up brogue upper. 

To match the counterculture airs of the clothes, hair was worn down either center or side-parted. Other key pieces included suede separates in green and pastel pink, floral appliqué as fringing and a paving stone motif (sous les pavés etc.) The late 1960s vibe kicked on with knitwear looks in Breton stripes, then some vertical pinstripes, then some fractured geometric prints. 

At the end Karl himself joined the models on the runway for an impromptu protest featuring hand-painted placards with statements like “Make Fashion Not War,” “History is Herstory” and “Feministe Mais Feminine.” An independent, trouser-wearing woman like Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel could only have approved. 

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