Paris fashion week: highlights from Sunday

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Humberto Leon and Carol Lim stayed true to the design house’s style DNA, presenting a collection full of contrasting volumes, graphic prints and colors. Overall, the line included a number of oversize pieces, although many of them were cinched at the models’ waists, which were worn high. The color palette emphasized contrasts between rich and saturated shades such as fire engine red or chartreuse with black or grey.

Andrew GN
Geometric tailoring, geometric prints, asymmetry and plenty of sheer effects were the defining characteristics of the designer’s Fall-Winter 2014-2015 collection. The waists were worn high, as at Kenzo, and they were often accented with a thin belt. Contrasting fabrics were combined for a sophisticated effect. There were several long and mid-length skirts, often in sheer, billowy layers and in black, white, grey or red.

Maison Rabih Kayrouz
The Lebanese designer took the audience on a trip to the hammam with this collection, which included a number of burnouses, the traditional hooded cloaks worn in Northern Africa. Maison Rabih Kayrouz offered a fresh take on the burnous, pairing it with ultra-modern dresses with geometric tailoring and slit skirts, for example. Cutout effects and draping were integral to the collection, creating the illusion that some of the models had tied on their dresses as if wrapping up in a bath towel. While burgundy, navy and various shades of white made up the palette for the clothes, the models’ feet shone with gold ankle boots.

John Galliano
This sensual collection, while perhaps a little too grown-up for some, presented an admirable tribute to the female form. The necklines were low, the waists were clearly accentuated, and the oversize trend seen elsewhere this season was all but absent. The house presented a number of prints, including trompe-l’œil patterns and fabrics printed to resemble works of art, with wide splashes of paint.

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