Chanel mixes tweed and Tyrolean touches in Salzburg Métiers d’Art show

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Set in the castle’s elaborate fantasy land, with guests dotted around the candlelit corridors and rooms (some seated in in the library, for instance), the brand’s latest show cast Lagerfeld as something of an alpine outfitter. 

While it was fixed on central European colors and motifs (the Lederhosen made plenty of trips down the runway), the collection shifted around in time, from Rococo frock coats to more modern biker jackets, and ruffled collars around necks. The classic Chanel tweed jackets came à la Wolfgang Amadeus, that is to say, without lapels but with gold piping. 

Patent leather touches contrasted with dresses in broderie anglaise fastened with black silk bows, quilted details, pleats, and loads of Tyrolean florals which appeared both as rustic appliqué and intarsia knits. In fact the opulence (there were some stunning feathered capes and coats) was balanced by the rustic greens and browns (like the knee-high lace-up boots in velvety suede) of the color palette, and the practicality of some of the fabrics (like the thick rib knits). 

With over 80 looks there were also plenty of men’s pieces in the collection, many rocked by the father and son combination of Lagerfeld’s godson Hudson Kroenig and his father Brad. Other models to make a splash included Lara Stone opening the show and the closing double act of Kendall Jenner and Cara Delevingne. 

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