Matthew Miller Man Autumn-Winter 2016-17 – There still is a space in fashion, and even a bigger one in menswear it turns out, where events, political games and culture movements of the hour are topics to stir designers and inspire them to defy the very sense of these structures. It is a space where, designer Matthew Miller is a regular, and this season he exposed the underworld of the wealthy.
Structured silhouettes and heavy layering gave an almost utilitarian vibe to all the looks, while the raw edges finished, or rather, adorned most of the pieces. A suspected connotation to the medieval tradition of a lady tying cloth around a knight’s arm, which inspired the phrase “wearing one’s heart on one’s sleeve.”
On one side, hand-stitched accessories and an oil on canvas coat depicting Caravaggio’s David and Goliath, on the other, grained leather biker jackets, straight cut coats and trousers, mostly in shades of black. In fact, Miller showed he found the secret to holding an all black look together; – a belt, that came to tie all the layers around the waist. And what was the absence of colour for some, revealed the richness of textures to most. A new kind of ‘Rich’!
For a collection so rich in cultural influences, the precision of the styling is what gave it its modern edge. An unexpected sighting was a roll neck, showing form underneath a white shirt, a leather bomber worn over a longline wool coat.
And so it seemed, Miller seamlessly integrated tradition within the Londoner’s wardrobe of tomorrow.
Matthew Miller Man Autumn-Winter 2016-17