Louis Vuitton Woman Autumn-Winter 2016 – Structure met femininity at Louis Vuitton in a collection that combined luxury with athletic vibes to create pieces that were surprisingly wearable.
The first look showcased the tone of some of the more aggressive and andronymous pieces of the show with a leather coat, only buttoned at the waist, layered over spray-on red leather trousers that revealed the naval and evoked a punchy attitude.
Even here, however, the creation of a feminine silhouette was significant with the belting of the jacket just-so slightly above the waist and later similar styles making use of slightly peplum trimmed designs. This was taken even further later in the show, where highly structured cropped jackets made the models’ waists look even more tidy, when they were layered over these tight trousers and unbuttoned dress designs.
Sporty-style t-shirts were also popular, the loose fit of which was contrasted either by the long leather gloves the model was wearing or leather detailing, whilst simultaneously being made more glamorous by the matching print of the equally flowy skirts. A particular highlight was a dress in racer blue which had a sporty t-shirt vibe on the top half but dropped into a floaty, slightly deconstructed skirt, in a quite literal combination of sportswoman and relaxed eveningwear.
At the same time, whenever pieces got more structured, such as the tight-fitting black waistcoat which streamlined the hips, they were always teamed with elegant silk skirts. This punky, relaxed glamour was emphasised by militaristic details such as those on the same waistcoat that seemed to resemble bullets and the leather-bra tops which were layered over other flowing silk dresses and black bodysuits alike.
Likewise, mohair knits, over-sized trapper hats and quilted jackets added to the comfortable but glamorous athleticism of the collection, acknowledging a need to stay warm in style.
Added attitude was portrayed through the models’ dark lips, a trend that has emerged as a staple from autumn/winter 2016-17 fashion weeks, as well as the metallic lace-up combat boots that continued the atmosphere of fighting spirit which could be used to define the whole collection.
Louis Vuitton Woman Autumn-Winter 2016