Viktor & Rolf
Autumn-Winter 2011/12 – “We were thinking of the wardrobe of a gentleman, and a suit is an iconic part of a gentleman’s wardrobe”, “[But] we wanted to play on what a suit actually is. It’s a symbol—a very masculine symbol—but it’s also just two garments in the same fabric”. They started with a tracksuit, matching top and trousers, and slightly smartened it up with a pair of black leather shoes. Next came a white undersuit; matching white cotton shorts and shirt with pulled up black socks as though even though he hasn’t finished dressing a suit is still a suit. Twice, a demure woman with high neck lines walks the runway, almost as if to emphasise the gentlemanly mood. The suits were strife. Black suits, red suits, brown suits, grey suits, all matching. Large polo neck collars and double faceted jackets brought some variety to the collection, but the suit prevailed.