Grinko Woman Autumn-Winter 2016 – If Wednesday Adams were a millennial, she’d be wearing Grinko AW16. The Russian born designer kicked off Milan fashion week with notions of nostalgia, as he merged womenswear and menswear to fabricate a purely grunge narrative.
At first glance this season’s looks exercised pyjama dressing, with loose fit velvet trousers and relaxed billowing silhouettes. The collection seemed geared towards non-conformist, whilst encouraging a rebellion against traditional modes of dressing. Case in point; A-line dresses over jacquard trousers, and fishnet underwear. To achieve this resonance, Sergei Grinko borrowed aspects from Japanese and goth subcultures, such as leather harnesses, repeating Koi fish motifs and obi belts.
The effect was a juxtaposition of girlhood innocence and aggression through volumes of sheers, satins, lace appliqué and Harajuku ruffles coupled with the dark palette. The men’s garments remained relaxed with sportswear silhouettes of floral bomber jackets and twill joggers softened by earthy tones. Geometric silhouettes and an emphasis on movement appropriated the looks for the AW season, whereas recurring floral prints suggested that it was not limited to any season.
Grinko Woman Autumn-Winter 2016