Costume National Woman Autumn-Winter 2016 – Costume National show this AW16 was a lesson on proportions. Designer Ennio Capasa took to shears and did to fabric what Edward Scissorhands did to hair. The result was canopies of silks and linens, layered over one another in a manner which mirrored a style of dishabillé.
Despite the hard structured outlines of narrow 70s coats, the collection was anything but static and the nature of its mobility was recompensed via melting silks on boiler suits and lush velvet asymmetric dresses. Aside from the feminine pieces, there were androgynous undertones than anything possibly brought on by the slouchiness of certain trousers with hardware detail running up the sides, coattails and exaggerated leather pirate boots.
And that was just the womenswear. The men’s looks resonated a certain intellectual quality possibly due to the combination of turtlenecks and boxed coats. There were shimmers and sparkles here and there debunking the sombre atmosphere caused by the moody palette.
The subtlety of the dark shades affected the more tactile textiles in a way which did not ream with luxury. Instead the conceptual mood permeated the collection with a certain freshness.
Costume National Woman Autumn-Winter 2016