Haute Couture shows: highlights from the fourth day
Yiqing Yin
Not unlike Jean Paul Gaultier, who chose butterflies as his theme this season, the French-Chinese designer drew her inspiration for this collection from moths. Models wore soft, delicate and airy looks composed of silk, organza and fur. Yiqing Yin presented several strapless evening gowns, which we can expect to see on the red carpets, as well as a number of multi-tiered dresses and skirts. Two looks in particular made a huge impression: a black tunic and pants ensemble entirely covered in pearls, and a long asymmetrical split-skirt dress adorned with two grey ‘moth wings.’
Valentino
Designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli took the audience on a trip through an imaginary world where nature reigns as queen. The colors were neutral, with plenty of grey, beige and black. Tulle, lace, crepe and feathers were abundant, along with embroidered pieces, such as long coats and a wine-colored dress adorned with a serpent — snaking its way down from the shoulder and around the waist — and a sublime ensemble embroidered with a tiger. The designers also emphasized transparent fabrics, open backs and, as seen in a number of collections this season, plunging necklines.
Viktor & Rolf
Like Julien Fournié, the two Dutch designers took a cue from the world of classical dance for their latest collection. But unlike the French designer’s ethereal gowns, the dresses in the Victor & Rolf collection were closer to leotards, with minimalistic tailoring and a few trompe-l’oeil effects. Ballerinas with impressively athletic physiques walked the runway en pointe in powdery pastel dresses, which were often printed with bows and ribbons. The models’ faces were hidden behind clouds of teased dark hair, giving them an other-worldly quality.
