Leno weave creates an open weave piece of fabric. It is stable at the same time as being very open. A leno weave is created by twisting two yarns together for the warp yarns. These yarns create a helix-like structure. The weft yarns are interwoven through the holes created in the twisted warp yarns. This is done using a special loom attachment called a ‘Doup’ and this means that the interwoven warp and weft yarns are locked in place. This technique creates a staple fabric which is very unusual in an open weave fabric.
Examples of fabrics made from leno weave are Gauze, Net and Tulle fabric. Leno weave fabrics can be made using many different fibres although one of the most common is silk. This is because in any other open weave fabric silk yarns are very prone to slippage and they are very smooth as it is. The interlocking warp and weft yarns prevent the fibres from moving around, even when sewn, meaning that Silk yarns can be used in fabrics that they previously couldn’t.
Properties of Leno/Gauze Fabrics
- Open Weave
- Light and air can pass through
- Available in various colours
- No thread slippage
- Often used in conjunction with other fabrics with other weave patterns to create fabrics that aren’t as transparent
End Uses of Leno/Gauze Fabrics
- Sheer Garments
- Fine Clothing
- Can be layered to create less transparent garments
- Work shirts because of its durability
- Delicate eveningwear
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