Women Autumn-Winter 2012/13 Trends

Latest Fashion trends

We have found a variety of total looks, must have items, most trendy seasonal colours to alternate with black, graphics & prints all to be combined with a great selection of accessories. I would say one of the most complete trend forecast around. Enjoy the read!

Search and forecast by Fabio Jesus D’Elia
Written by Camilla Harrison

TOTAL LOOKS: GOTH

Look to the dark side for wardrobe inspiration this Autumn with separates in tight black leather and satin. Take the lead from film characters, think Rooney Mara on screen in ‘The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo’ and off screen on the red carpet, oozing attitude in sharply structured garments in black from head to toe.

At Ann Demeuleemester, models stormed down the catwalk in origami silhouetted jackets and tight leather trousers, complete with knee length boots and topped off with angular, punk-esque hairstyles.

Elie Saab presented a more polished version of the Goth girl with sweeping silhouettes whilst Gareth Pugh showed Dracula style high collars amidst swathes of black that encased the body like the wings of a bat.

If you feel that all over black is too literal for you, take note from Gucci and Givenchy, who presented garments in a dark palette accented with deep purples, blood reds and intricate lace adding a sense of delicacy to the look.

Never one to shy away from a touch of glamour, the Versace Goth girl wore armour of black leather adorned with black studs and bejewelled cross motifs; a look certainly not for the faint hearted.

TOTAL LOOKS: BAROQUE

Designers travelled back to the 17th century this season and adorned models in ornate detail more likely seen on the palace of Versailles than on the runway.

Balmain, ever a purveyor of intricate texture and print, created fitted dresses that left the body resembling a decorative vase in shades of blue and cream.

McQ (McQueen’s second line) and Dolce & Gabbana showed a darker palette, tying in with the Goth trend also present, overlaid with sumptuous brocade of meandering vines and autumn leaves.

The grandeur of the Baroque era was brought into the modern day by Lanvin who showed dramatic prints on a background of candy pinks and brights, paired with oversized amulets around the neck.

TOTAL LOOKS: LAYERING

“It’s the new three piece suit” says Karl Lagerfeld of his latest collection for Chanel which takes layering to a new level. Skirts over trousers complete with matching jacket is the way to keep warm this Winter whilst staying chic in the eyes of Lagerfeld. This new layered silhouette is on the minds of many designers this season; note in particular Marc Jacobs collection for Louis Vuitton. Skirt suits in rich colours and ornate jewelled detail were paired with matching trousers, which peeped out of the bottom of a mid length skirt, creating a demure yet quirky look. For a more minimalist take on layering, look to Cedric Charlier and Giambattista Valli who created clean lines with slim fit trousers and chic tunic dresses, or belt at the waist for more shape as seen at Yves Saint Laurent. A versatile trend, this is perfect for the colder months and brings the skirt suit up to date.

TOTAL LOOKS: 70s

A decade that is often cited as inspiration for many designers, the 70s was brought back to life on the catwalk this season.

Marc Jacobs and Miuccia Prada soaked up the eclectic fashions and repeated prints of the era and translated them into chic trouser suits and layered looks. Prints were reminscent of the iconic designs created by Celia Birtwell for Ossie Clark in the 1970s, both designers disregarded the loose and floaty shapes of the decade and instead focused on a neater and cleaner silhouette to exhibit their Bridget Riley-esque creations.

MUST HAVE ITEMS: MILITARY COAT

Military styles are back on the agenda for AW12, but this time round they are less rigid and more countryside-chic. The perfect staple to layer over a fitted dress, the military coat is easy to wear and looks effortlessly stylish.

Burberry, a label known for their love of heritage dress, showed military coats in a palette of earthy colours in soft velvets and quilting, tied simply at the waist for perfect ‘just thrown on’ style. Oversized and dramatic at Balmain, the military coat was worn open and draped over delicate dresses, emphasising the quality and weight of such a coat.

Finally, Salvatore Ferragamo demonstrated the unparalleled ability of military style dress to perfect the posture and frame the figure; again in an array of dusky greys and natural browns, the final flourish in the form of leather lapels and trimming.

MUST HAVE ITEMS: CAPE

Perhaps the most versatile of all pieces seen on the catwalk this season is the cape; transform an outfit in a second with this garment draped around the shoulders.

For a luxurious finish and a hint to the 70s trend, wear a fur version as seen at Roland Mouret and Dries Van Noten and keep snug at the same time. Perfect for inclement weather, the cape can be structured and classic as seen at Leonard and Limi Feu, or relaxed and casual as seen at Chloé and Hermes, whose blanket style cape is a must have. The beauty of a cape is its ability to create contrast and drama within an outfit; dress a leather cape as seen at Givenchy and Yves Saint Laurent over a delicate lace blouse or heavy knit jumper to create textural interest.

MUST HAVE ITEMS: KNITWEAR

Seen in all forms, the knitted jumper is your statement piece this season. No longer a side line piece, this classic knitwear can turn your outfit from simple to exciting.

Barbara Bui, Louis Vuitton and Roland Mouret showed classic styles that complement any outfit; paired with an elegant pencil skirt, the humble jumper instantly looks modern. Play with texture, as seen atGiambattista Valli, whose knitwear pieces could be mistaken for a printed garment producing a trompe l’oeil effect. Contrast textures as seen at Chloé, where heavy knit pieces were paired with leather separates and decorate with opulent jewels as seen at Nina Ricci and Chanel.

COLOURS: PURPLE

Historically a colour that denotes wealth and status, purple was the accent colour of the season.

Alberta Ferretti’s purple fur coats exuded luxury, while a purple chiffon dress was fun, flirty and delicate. Seen in a variety of textures, purple lends itself to glamour and suits all skin tones and hair colours.

For a younger, funkier take on the colour, look to Versus who created purple dresses incorporating various details such as a 70s style repeated print, or a black criss-cross detail that covered the fabric.

Head to toe purple is a look for the brave, so why not introduce it as a base colour as seen at Chanel, where purple chiffon maxi dresses eased seamlessly into the palette of pinks, purples and reds.

COLOURS: REDS

Release your inner vamp and dress in pillar box red this Autumn. Bright, bold and not for the timid, this seasons lipstick red will undoubtedly get you noticed.

Donna Karan’s collection was unashamedly sexy, showing a slinky, tightly fitted red dress that needs little else to create a dramatic look whilst her sharp fitted blazer and leather coat are perfect for adding a focal point to a look.

Hussein Chalayan’s simple red dresses may have seemed relatively conservative for the usually eccentric designer; but you need to add little else to a red dress, the colour speaks for itself and makes a statement whilst seeming effortless.

It is impossible to talk about red without mentioning Valentino, a label who is synonymous with the colour. This season’s red came in the form of simple knee length dresses with scalloped edges or laser cut detail.

COLOURS: PETROL

Perfectly paired with both purple and red, petrol blue is the new colour to be seen in. Evoking a sense of the 70s, the petrol coloured dress took every form possible.

From a fitted pencil skirt dress to an ultra glamorous maxi dress covered in sequins at Elie Saab, the designer showed just how versatile the colour is. A more muted version of the colour was seen atHussein Chalayan, as he showed elegant flowing maxi dresses.

TEXTURES AND PRINTS: CHECKS & PLAIDS

Tick plaids off your checklist this season with pieces from Marc Jacobs to Rick Owens in an array of dresses, jackets, skirts and capes. Plaids are an often recurring theme, but this season they are undoubtedly the it-print.

Donna Karan draped her models in check wool, reminiscent of picnic blankets; the effect was bold paired with simple black separates, and evoked images of traditional Highland dress. Vivienne Westwood, who has used plaids in everything from her punk collections of the 1970s, to her forties tweed skirt suits, updated the check in pastel blues and browns, accented with red.

TEXTURES AND PRINTS: ART DECO

Adorn your clothes with jewels and ornate graphic prints this season and work the Deco look. Marc Jacobs’ clashing prints and textures were lavish and luxurious focusing intricate detail on everything from shoe buckles to hats. The repeated motifs printed on trouser suits at Miu Miu were shown in jewel colours and paired with contrasting shirts. A follow on from the Pyjama suit last season, wear your Deco prints on more structured pieces this season as seen at Prada.

ACCESSORIES & BAGS: BELT

Worn over knitwear, coats or to accentuate the waist in dresses, the belt is the must have accessory this Autumn; like the cape, the belt is seen in every form. For a decorative girly look, see Elie Saab who showed thin belts at the waist to match the dresses, emphasising an hourglass figure. For a more casual style, look to Isabel Marant, the queen of effortless French chic, who slung decorative belts round the hips. Roland Mouret and Sonia Rykiel also showed thin belts but were simpler and had a more functional design of keeping a coat or jacket in place. Any belt goes this season; Leonard showed an Obi style belt and Haider Ackermann’s belt was reminiscent of a corset style, worn over a tight fitting pencil skirt and shirt.

ACCESSORIES & BAGS: HATS

The variety seen in hats this season could not be more contrasting, from the chic to the eccentric.

Christian Dior showed pastel woollen hats in a 20s cloche style, while the DSquared model wore an oversized baseball cap, in soft fur in a rich colour palette.

For the ultimate extravagant hat, look to Louis Vuitton where hats were oversized and unstructured and adorned with feathers. With so many to choose from, the overriding rule is to avoid simple, and make a statement.

ACCESSORIES & BAGS: SCARVES

There are two schools of scarf to choose from this Autumn; boho chic or luxurious fur.

At Chanel, lightweight scarves were twisted and looped loosely around the neck in tie dye prints.

Meanwhile, Etro showed simple, classic fur scarves, tucked neatly at the breastbone, perfect paired with a layered skirt suit.

ACCESSORIES & BAGS: BAGS

The days of a uniform It-bag are no more; it’s all about colour, embellishment and unique details this season. Texture was a recurring theme, from patent snakeskin, to soft fur.

TOTES

For the girl that likes a functional, no-nonsense bag look to Chloé for oversized leather bags in pastels. The candy coloured leather is soft and supple contrasted with strong black piping. Perfect for the office; carry your Filofax, laptop and a pair of heels for after-work cocktails. Gucci showed slouchy totes with a focus on texture in the form of brocade and patent snakeskin.

SHOULDER BAG

Look to Balenciaga for stylishly plain saddle style bags with a utility, sports-luxe feel. In soft tan and electric blue, this style comprises poppers and a zip making it utterly practical. Lanvin took on the Deco trend of the season and showed mini hard cased bags adorned with gems and stones hanging on long chains or brocade.

A Chanel look is not complete without the classic quilted bag, which of course featured in Lagerfeld’s latest collection, but also seen were metallic beauties with a chain strap. These were worn not on the shoulder but delicately entwined in the fingers and swung loosely by the hip; a Chanel lesson in how to carry your bag. Alternatively, see Valentino where models carried studded bags clutched in the hand while the chain hung below.

CLUTH

The clutch remains an evening wear staple this season, with exquisite examples shown at Bottega Veneta, who presented a variety of brown and black models, with textured and woven leather detail.

MINI

The ‘mini’ bag was seen everywhere on the catwalk; classic features are a structured shape and small handle clutched neatly in the hand.

Dior showed a monochrome tweed number, while Dolce & Gabbana’s offerings were more playful, including a cream fur bag, and a black crotchet style. Gianfranco Ferre’s snakeskin rectangular mini bags were perfect in petrol blue and vanilla cream.

Valentino catered to the goth girl, showing simple structured bags decorated with studs and chain handles.

DOCTOR

The structured doctors bag featured in the majority of collections this Autumn; from pink and fluffy atDior to clean white and draped in chains at Dolce & Gabbana or chic and simple in black at Lavin. A favourite from the Gucci show, was a mini bag in black snakeskin complete with equestrian style buckle detail in gold.

Louis Vuitton’s jewel encrusted bags were impossible to resist and paired perfectly with the Deco style of the collection; sparkling jewels added new interest to the humble doctors bag.

ACCESSORIES & BAGS: SHOES

The old adage, ‘A girl can never have too many shoes’ could not be more relevant this Autumn, as there is countless styles to choose from, all matching up with a unique look.

CHUNKY

The Deco look at Louis Vuitton is completed with square toed sky high heels in brogue and Mary Jane styles in rich colours and finished with gems.

LONG LENGTH BOOTS

When the Givenchy models stormed down the catwalk in black leather thigh high boots, they instantly became a must have. With a notable equestrian influence, the simple black boots were striking and practical for the Autumn weather. Alexander McQueen’s offering of boots this season were perhaps slightly less practical but no less striking; in pure white fur, the boots were notably absent of a heel creating a structural masterpiece that should only be worn by the very brave.

STILETTO

Utterly glamorous but with an edge of danger, heavily jewelled and studded shoes complete with a killer heel at DSquared while with a more sporty edge for Balenciaga

ANKLE BOOTS

Ankle boots are a regular at the Autumn/Winter shows, and this season was no different. McQueenshowed an ankle height version of the white fur shoes, whilst Dolce & Gabbana took influence from the Goth trend and showed Edwardian style lace up boots in black patent leather and complete with gold buttons.

Fendi presented boots in a palette of earthy colours and an array of textures, from soft grey and moss green wool to chestnut brown contrasted with cherry red patent snakeskin. Classic and wear-with-everything black ankle boots were provided by Lanvin, complete with chunky heel and buckle detail.

Latest Fashion trends

camilla

Written by Camilla Harrison

Camilla is currently in her final year studying BA Fashion History and Theory at Central St Martins and is a freelance writer for a range of publications and websites, writing fashion, arts and culture. In the last year, Camilla has been archiving the garments and history of Margaret Howell.


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