Woman Trends Spring-Summer 2017

Woman Trends Spring-Summer 2017

Written by Nicola Torch

Search and forecast by Fabio Jesus D’Elia

 

Total Look:  Sheer / see through

A diaphanous display of sheer graced many runways, imparting a romantic aesthetic with articulate refinement.

 Alexander Wang RS17 1639 Alexander Wang RS17 1653

Alexander Wang

This season, Alexander Wang exposed a sultry vibe through a black slip dress and low-cut, polka-dotted vest; both of which featured subtle, lingerie detailing and were finished off by black sandals with an oversized ankle cuff.

Barcelona RS17 6142 Barcelona RS17 5417 Barcelona RS17 5317

Custo Barcelona

Custo Barcelona created a playful take on see-through, with bold prints and semi-transparent items glossed with a shiny finish steeping the designs in a youthful tactility.

Cavalli RS17 2304 Cavalli RS17 2428 Cavalli RS17 2478

Cavalli RS17 2489 Cavalli RS17 2542 Cavalli RS17 2553

Cavalli

Daringly exotic, Cavalli’s heavily embellished, floor-length dresses provided a striking balance between bare skin and delicate embroidery: busy, loud, yet outstandingly elegant.

Dior RS17 2021 Dior RS17 2035 Dior RS17 2054

Dior

Understated and neutral see-through pieces were on show at Dior; straightforward lines were emphasised by beautiful embroidery composed of gold and turquoise tones, with the transparent fabric leaving little to the imagination.

Fendi RS17 1377 Fendi RS17 1430

Fendi

Dark and flowing dresses were a staple at Fendi where floral prints combined effortlessly with the sheer fabric and black studded straps to create an ethereal femininity.

Giorgio Armani RS17 0478 Giorgio Armani RS17 0519 Giorgio Armani RS17 0533

Giorgio Armani

Armani exhibited a glittering display of sheer garments that all had a unique frosted effect through the grey shades and sparkling sequins which dazzled against the bare skin.

Herrera RS17 2706

Carolina Herrera

A sheer shoulder was offered by Herrera in the form of this organza halter gown; the folded sheer sleeve equalling out the heavy pattern.

Jacobs RS17 4290

Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs spoke to a more eccentric character with the use of sheer panelling and trim toning down bold, paisley tunics and offering a modernised Victorian silhouette.

Jason Wu RS17 1929 Jason Wu RS17 1935 Jason Wu RS17 1940

Jason Wu

A seductive sophistication was achieved here through the muted palette and gossamer fabric which hung off the body to create supreme softness.

Krizia RS17 1576

Krizia

The monotone combination of black and gold used by Krizia provided an ornate gloss to the sheer fabric, allowing the delicate shaping to take centre stage.

Lanvin RS17 0675 Lanvin RS17 0710

Lanvin

Lanvin mixed the subtlety of the clear fabric with a bold and electric blue to create an outspoken edge.

Laroche RS17 1562 Laroche RS17 1582

Guy Laroche

The trend was given a plasticky reconstruction by Guy Laroche, stripping back the designs with the appearance of several transparent knee-length dresses.

Marchesa RS17 0738 Marchesa RS17 0756

Marchesa

A dreamlike grandeur was mastered by Marchesa, who seemed to capture a Grecian wonderland filled with iridescent lace, layers of tulle and pleated details. A purity was felt throughout by the delicate designs of elegantly placed sheer.

Scervino RS17 1113 Scervino RS17 1134 Scervino RS17 1392

Ermanno Scervino

Simple pastel dresses were seen at Ermanno Scervino, with the range of bubblegum pinks and pale aquas working with honeycomb detailing and sheer boat necks to create a romantic allure.

Zac Posen RS17 2249 Zac Posen RS17 2256 Zac Posen RS17 2320

Zac Posen

Zac Posen did not shy away from colour in his use of the trend, with the bold colours of deep reds and purples emphasising the gloss-like quality of the sheer material.

Woman Trends Spring-Summer 2017

Total Look:  Chinz

A redefinition of lines and shapes was achieved through this trend, offering up a range of silhouettes through the creased construction.

Elie Saab RS17 4896

Elie Saab

Saab addressed an opulent take on the trend, with a lamé construction complimenting a contrasting lapel detail and tailored fit; a glitzy upgrade to a masculine classic.

Bottega Veneta RS17 0133

Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta’s off-copper coat exemplifies an exaggerated sense of elegance, with the brown leather belt bringing definition to the waist and counteracting the stiffness of the leather.

Fendi RS17 1029 Fendi RS17 1097 Fendi RS17 1600

Fendi

Fendi captured a regal ease, exhibiting a range of silhouettes through the waist-line placement; gathered and high-waisted skirts gave a fluidity to floral skirts, while a thin and low-rise waist elongated the body and intensified the curved print.

Gucci RS17 0373

Gucci

A two-tone dynamic of a rich red and gold illuminated the silhouette in Gucci’s skirt-suit, where the wide, red outline reconfigured the body’s lines.

Herrera RS17 2654 Herrera RS17 2661

Carolina Herrera

A phantasmagoria of illusion and mystery was achieved through the crackled effect of Herrera’s gowns; the metallic finish gave a glossy texture to the lamé jacquard arrangement while both the one-shoulder design and slightly puffed sleeves added a dramatic dimension.

Jacobs RS17 4280 Jacobs RS17 4299 Jacobs RS17 4761

Marc Jacobs

Indulging in sparkles, sequins and satins, Marc Jacobs introduced a plethora of colour which was slightly toned down by the ruched detailing and figure-hugging belts.

Jil Sander RS17 2524 Jil Sander RS17 2545

Jil Sander

Oversized and boxy ensembles were showcased by Jil Sander who used gathered material to reconstruct silhouettes; chinched hems gave a relaxed feel while the silver shine elevated the masculine lines.

Laroche RS17 1562 Laroche RS17 1582

Guy Laroche

The translucent texturing used by Guy Laroche gave a synthetic resilience, with the plasticky creases contrasting to some of the softer looks offered by other designers.

Marchesa RS17 0879 Marchesa RS17 1047 Marchesa RS17 1165

Marchesa

Opulent gowns consisted of deep pleats and draped fabric to create aurelian masterpieces, the cinched material imparting a majestic appeal.

Phillip Lim RS17 1229

Phillip Lim

A scoop neck and flared sleeves emphasised the trend at Phillip Lim, where the plush fabric enwrapped the model in such a way that highlighted the shiny material, allowing the creases to produce a delicate fragility.

Plein RS17 2473 Plein RS17 2537 Plein RS17 2561

Philipp Plein

Creased jackets, metallic crinkles and golden etched detailing all debuted at Philipp Plein’s show.

Rodriguez RS17 1445 Rodriguez RS17 1460 Rodriguez RS17 1600

Narciso Rodriguez

Deep silvers and polished greys slinked over the models with the v-neck form accentuated by the sleek satin material which gave an unadulterated gentility.

Victoria Beckham RS17 0091 Victoria Beckham RS17 0109

Victoria Beckham

Victoria Beckham tamed the trend by displaying demure, off-white textured silk and velvet to create deconstructed outfits with comfortable silhouettes.

Woman Trends Spring-Summer 2017

Total Look:  Military

Hard-hitting and aggressive, the military trend is back and bigger than ever, stomping a vigorous foot onto many SS17 runways.

Altuzarra RS17 1347 Altuzarra RS17 1444 

Altuzarra

A structured silhouette was created through black waist belts and leather cord trims at Altuzarra.

Balmain clp RS17 1326 Balmain clp RS17 1623 Balmain RS17 0949

Balmain RS17 0961 Balmain RS17 0980 Balmain RS17 1135

Balmain

A jungle army was sent down the Balmain runway, with earthy colours facilitating the snake-skin textures and suede cargo pockets to produce a contemporary elegance.

Diesel clp RS17 3659 Diesel clp RS17 3665 Diesel RS17 0379

Diesel RS17 0398 Diesel RS17 0449 Diesel RS17 0487

Diesel

Diesel made a strong statement through their utilitarian pieces, dull greens and greys forming the palette of rustic skirts comprised of zips and poppers as well as a bustier top featuring criss-cross lace.

Fay clp RS17 6121

Fay

Shades of greens and blacks featured in the Fay show, where appliquéd patches paralleled military officers and boxy shirts were softened by floral detailing.

Kenzo RS17 2282 Kenzo RS17 2294 Kenzo RS17 2317

Kenzo

A military rawness was evoked through khaki pencil skirts and high-waisted trousers while a hooded cape blouse with drawstring hood produced a modern interpretation of the classic camouflage motif.

Laroche clp RS17 1330 Laroche clp RS17 1370

Guy Laroche

An atypical interpretation of the military theme through an absence of the commonplace green, Guy Laroche presented camel cotton pants with a twisted belt design as well as a ribbed-collar jacket with overextended shoulders.

Rykiel clp RS17 1637 Rykiel clp RS17 1643

Sonia Rykiel

Sonia Rykiel offered a feminine toughness through an olive leather skirt, which was lent further definition through the large button detailing and slit design.

Versus RS17 2599 Versus RS17 2622 Versus RS17 2630

Versus

Swapping the battlefields for the streets in Versus’ take, where an urban edge was achieved through khaki bomber jackets accentuated by ribbed detailing, oversized collars and laced up boot combinations; staying true to its established rebellion.

Woman Trends Spring-Summer 2017

Must Have: Palazzo trousers

Perfect for the spring and summer months, a palazzo trouser was a firm favourite by many designers who sought to reimagine the likes of Hepburn and Garbo.

 Ackermann RS17 3963

Haider Ackermann

City chic was the advocated motif put forward by Ackermann, with streamline silhouettes matching with a white, drop-sleeved shirt to produce an effortless working day attire.

Agnes B RS17 3067

Agnes B

Agnes B on the other hand opted for a slouchier feel, reinforced by the pinstriped pattern.

Demeulemeester RS17 0465 Demeulemeester RS17 0548 Demeulemeester RS17 0635

Ann Demeulemeester

Blurring the lines between masculine and feminine, Ann Demeulemeester fused together the fluidity of palazzo trousers with strict, disassembled tailoring.

Hermes clp RS17 1829 Hermes clp RS17 2129 Hermes clp RS17 2138

Hermes RS17 1968 Hermes RS17 2027 Hermes RS17 2165

Hermes

A structural silhouette was similarly seen at Hermes, where wide legs contrasted to high-waisted designs and transferred attention to this area through wide-bucketed belts, giving definition and an elongated frame.

Kenzo RS17 2294 Kenzo RS17 2305

Kenzo

The palazzo trouser was used in conjunction with boxy jackets in Kenzo’s show; the rolled-up sleeves stressing the flare of the pant.

Lanvin clp RS17 0006 Lanvin clp RS17 0015 Lanvin clp RS17 0350

Lanvin

Lanvin focused on comfortable elegance through the studded sandals and overhanging jackets, both of which worked with the fluency achieved by the palazzo trouser.

Laroche clp RS17 1396 Laroche RS17 1631

Guy Laroche

Slightly more industrial-feeling garments clung to the legs of Guy Laroche’s models; a grid-like pattern embellished a plasticky looking trouser that seemed to have a certain stiffness usually avoided by a palazzo trouser, Equally, metallic panelling gave a modernised decoration to an otherwise simplistic ensemble.

Loewe RS17 0437 Loewe RS17 0521

Loewe

There was a sporty edge to the looks on show at Loewe in the form of a bold print of orange and black as well as loose-fitting and lightweight trousers with leather trim.

Mabille RS17 1030 Mabille RS17 1066

Alexis Mabille

With a retro vibrance in the air, a fresh take on the palazzo trouser was seen at Alexis Mabille through the high waistline, front pleats and cuffed ankle, bolstered by the primary colours of blue and red.

Paco Rabanne RS17 0706

Paco Rabanne

In keeping with their established futuristic sensibilities, Paco Rabanne’s minimalist trouser was elevated by the ultra-flared hem and matching hooded shirt.

Paul e Joe RS17 5038 Paul e Joe RS17 5066 Paul e Joe RS17 5288

Paul & Joe

Urban and causal, low-rise pants were paired with boyish shirts, elongated straps and metallic-chained jewellery to categorise Paul and Joe’s take on the trend as adolescent and robust.

Valentino RS17 4237

Valentino

A soft shade varnished the trend at Valentino, with the baby-pink colour complimenting the delicate satin, both emphasizing wide-leg and flared hem.

Van Noten RS17 3898 Van Noten RS17 3922 Van Noten RS17 3932

Dris Van Noten

Dris Van Noten featured a palazzo trouser in a range of outfits, signalling its truly versatile functionality; from a loose aquatic print, to a heavier denim fabric and slightly peplum style, Van Noten’s manipulation heralds the palazzo form as both refined and easy-going.

Vionnet clp RS17 2006 Vionnet clp RS17 2011 Vionnet clp RS17 2038

Vionnet

Vionnet similarly used the palazzo in two contrasting styles; the first incorporated floaty fabric to produce an airy and lightweight design, whereas the second featured a more weighted fabric, with the opaque colour complimenting this density.

 

Must Have: High wedges

Designers invested in imaginative constructions where ingenuity and uniqueness thrived.

Balmain clp RS17 1381 Balmain clp RS17 1520 Balmain clp RS17 1524

Balmain

Balmain’s offering gave prominence to thick, open-toed wedges in colours ranging from a deep olive green to a diverse display of animal print.

Bottega Veneta clp RS17 0018 Bottega Veneta clp RS17 0155 Bottega Veneta clp RS17 0296

Bottega Veneta clp RS17 0361 Bottega Veneta clp RS17 0372 Bottega Veneta clp RS17 0382

Bottega Veneta

A forties inspiration was evident in the Bottega Veneta show, where wedge hells were updated through glossy leather finishes and suede yute compositions. A slim ankle strap accompanied most looks and if absent, a two-tone, almost brogue design was put in its place.

Miyake clp RS17 2727 Miyake clp RS17 2761 Miyake clp RS17 2964

Issey Miyake

Issey Miyake mastered the fine art of making the kooky look exquisitely desirable through a quirky yet minimalist sensibility; channeling a Japanese influence, rectangular structures were coloured in vibrant hues with the combination of wood and leather creating an impeccable uniqueness.

Rochas clp RS17 8353 Rochas clp RS17 8368

Rochas

There was a mix of wooden soles and colourful shades also seen in Rochas show, with the platform wedge emphasising the slingback form and giving definition to the fuchsia and bright blue colouring.

Schouler clp RS17 0950 Schouler clp RS17 0962 Schouler clp RS17 0985

Proenza Schouler

Chunky soles were transformed in Proenza Schouler’s collection through a playful splattering of colour; otherwise basic and dark shoes were enhanced by coloured lining, checkered patterns and spliced straps.

Westwood clp RS17 0905 Westwood clp RS17 0945 Westwood clp RS17 1028

Vivienne Westwood

Known for all things dramatic, there was a rather understated elegance to the shoes that graced the Vivienne Westwood runway, with a floral platform being paired with a criss-cross strap providing a vintage feel, while a studded clog with gold detailing maintained the muted ambience.

Woman Trends Spring-Summer 2017

Detail: Glass Heel

This season’s glass heel shatters expectations by refashioning classic looks with a dynamic twist.

Balmain clp RS17 1782 Balmain clp RS17 1850 Balmain clp RS17 2187

Balmain

Balmain showcased open-toed designs which were tinged with coloured glass to create towering wedges.

Elie Saab clp RS17 1501

Elie Saab

Majestic heels were seen at Elie Saab, were thinly-strapped shoes were trimmed with gold thread complimenting the shimmering star design imprinted onto the heel itself.

Hermes clp RS17 1921 Hermes clp RS17 2096 Hermes clp RS17 2263

Hermes

Dated, almost 1960s designs were given a modern overhaul through open-spaced heels, with the margin and thick soles giving an architectural feel.

Mugler clp RS17 0516 Mugler clp RS17 0700

Mugler

A range of heels were offered by Mugler, with mini metallic kitten heels as well as chunkier, transparent numbers making an appearance.

Woman Trends Spring-Summer 2017

Jewellery: Chunky

Honing in on the transformative powers a standout piece of jewellery holds, chunky adornments inflated many SS17 looks this season.

Chanel clp RS17 1078 Chanel clp RS17 1112 

Chanel

Elegant designs filled Chanel’s show with intricate conceptions of multi-coloured oval gems interlocked through thin, golden chains. A mixture of beads formed the backdrop onto which the signature Chanel emblem was carved from glittering jewels.

Etro clp RS17 1280 Etro clp RS17 1308 Etro clp RS17 1658

Etro

Monotone jewellery was boasted by Etro in the form of oversized and circular pendants hooked onto stiff, golden bands.

Givenchy clp RS17 5878 Givenchy clp RS17 5917

Givenchy

Huge agate necklaces were a firm feature in Givenchy’s collection, with Riccardo Tisci combining the large crystallised designs with chunky curb chains to create a modern and earthly feel.

Hermes clp RS17 2049 Hermes clp RS17 2087 Hermes clp RS17 2150

Hermes

Key, locks and hooks made up the jewellery on show by Hermes, featuring an assortment of gold and silver pieces which all interlocked and dangled elegantly over the hands.

Lanvin clp RS17 0075 Lanvin clp RS17 0097 Lanvin clp RS17 0100

Lanvin clp RS17 0183 Lanvin clp RS17 0194 Lanvin clp RS17 0870

Lanvin

Gold-tone detailing was incorporated into exaggerated designs by Lanvin; a diverse range which achieved intensity through the fiery, almost floral bracelets, a mismatch of golden and copper hues, and sophisticated chainmail chokers.

Mabille clp RS17 1015 Mabille clp RS17 1314 Mabille clp RS17 1327

Alexis Mabille

Necklaces loaded with bauble-sized bells stood out at Alexis Mabille; large clusters dangled from a thin fabric necklace with colours ranging from a golden finish to an electric blue.

McQueen clp RS17 2037 McQueen clp RS17 2458

Alexander McQueen

Gothic glamour was displayed by Alexander McQueen, perfectly capturing the dark decadence that the label is famed for, yet fusing this with a regal elegance through the deep-red gems and silver-tone structure.

Plein clp RS17 7389 Plein clp RS17 7460 Plein clp RS17 7783

Plein clp RS17 8323 Plein clp RS17 8336 Plein clp RS17 8576

Phillip Plein

Subtle would not be an appropriate description for the jewellery on offer by Phillip Plein; the extravaganza featured excessive amounts of gold, with most pieces layered and hung in a medley of ways and all tangled together to create an explosion of modern glitz.

Prada RS17 1748 Prada RS17 1766 Prada RS17 2102

Prada

Geometric designs filled the Prada runway, with necklaces shaped from octagonal pedants suspended from smaller, interconnected hexagonal structures.

Woman Trends Spring-Summer 2017

Colour Pop: Yellow

Designers imbued many looks with a pop of colour through their adherence to chromatic shades of yellow.

Ackermann RS17 3772 Ackermann RS17 3822 Ackermann RS17 4119 

Haider Ackermann

Demonstrating its versatility, an electric yellow was championed in a number of Ackermann pieces; from a greenish-yellow slim dress to a flowing and plunging chiffon outfit, the colour gave looks a magnetic edge.

Balenciaga RS17 3743 Balenciaga RS17 3767

Balenciaga

Bulky designs were relaxed and softened through the marigold tones which sharply contrasted the bold primary colours assigned to the lower garments.

Barbara Bui RS17 2012 Barbara Bui RS17 2033 Barbara Bui RS17 2042

Barbara Bui

PVC outfits were adorned with butterscotch tones, the contrasting yellow and black colours amplifying the tight-fitting clothes.

Bottega Veneta RS17 0157 Bottega Veneta RS17 0626

Bottega Veneta

A light yellow offered a demure feel to Veneta’s designs, with the pale colour complimenting the floral patterns and giving a softer feel to boxy, more masculine structures.

Chanel RS17 0351

Chanel

The vanilla-yellow shade used by Channel perfectly demonstrated how delicate colours can subdue more masculine silhouettes.

Chloe RS17 6154

Chloe

Tight pleats, ruffled skirts and layered sleeves were perfectly harmonised through the deep yellow colour, with the richness offering an air of antiquity and bringing life to the intricate detailing.

Dolce e Gabb RS17 2281 Dolce e Gabb RS17 2363

Dolce & Gabbana

Combining the relaxed floral prints of sunflower dresses with more sophisticated ensembles of lace trims and three-quarter length sleeves, Dolce & Gabbana achieved an effortless maturity that stayed true to a youthful fullness throughout.

Ferragamo RS17 3462 Ferragamo RS17 3493

Salvatore Ferragamo

A bold and bright yellow elevated simple structures by giving them an ambitious vibrancy in Ferragamo.

Gucci RS17 0667

Gucci

The use of a golden-yellow shade gave depth and intensity to a see-through dress with extravagant ruffled detail, the colour adding a slightly other-worldly feel.

Hermes RS17 1897  Hermes RS17 1912

Hermes RS17 1930 Hermes RS17 2005 Hermes RS17 2324

Hermes

Hermes featured a mixture of yellow and greens, providing a sharp contrast to the neutrality of white outerwear.

Laroche RS17 1422 Laroche RS17 1442

Guy Laroche

A more relaxed take on the trend was seen at Guy Laroche, whose pale yellows gave a lightweight feel to chiffon and sheer fabrics.

Mabille RS17 1258 Mabille RS17 1273 Mabille RS17 1323

Alexis Mabille

The vast display of canary yellow and rich mustards emphasised the standout pieces at Mabille, drawing attention to the golden tassels which formed the reverse side of several panelled skirts and fluorescent bustier dress.

Margiela RS17 3164 Margiela RS17 3195 Margiela RS17 3212

Maison Margiela

Honey tones graced the wacky designs of Maison Margiela in form of upside down and inside out coats, chunky belts and asymmetrical jackets.

Owens RS17 1540 Owens RS17 1565 Owens RS17 1793

Rick Owens

Theatricality was the emanating motif seen in Owen’s trend approach, with block yellow colours constructing the overhanging and distended designs whilst also demanding attention by hiding the figure through an assortment of textured layers.

Pucci RS17 1584 Pucci RS17 1624 Pucci RS17 1643

Pucci RS17 1683 Pucci RS17 1961 Pucci RS17 1989

Pucci RS17 2013 Pucci RS17 2024 Pucci RS17 2036

Emilio Pucci

Acid yellow enriched soft designs of draped shoulders, chiffon, body-hugging dresses and sequin detailing to capture femininity at its most exquisite.

Rochas RS17 4557 Rochas RS17 4606 Rochas RS17 4613

Rochas

The colour combinations at Rochas produced an almost fantastical theme, with marigold and dandelion shades being layered on top of baby pink and light azure tulle.

Valentino RS17 4285 Valentino RS17 4300 Valentino RS17 4312b

Valentino

With a more bohemian take on the trend, Valentino featured hand-drawn prints, intricate embroidery and subtle pleats; all of which were illuminated by the flax yellow colour.

Van Noten RS17 3891 Van Noten RS17 3907 Van Noten RS17 3922

Dris Van Noten

An oriental treatment of yellow was seen at Dris Van Noten; from a satin-bomber to high-rise satin trousers and a gathered panel and flared-hem skirt.

Vionnet RS17 2160 Vionnet RS17 2182

Vionnet

Burnt-amber was the colour of choice by Vionnet, whose two-tone designs and asymmetrical outwear provided a sophisticated and sporty ambiance.

Woman Trends Spring-Summer 2017

Woman Trends Spring-Summer 2017

Nicola Torch

Written by Nicola Torch

A third year student of English Literature at the University of St Andrews. An aspiring fiction writer with a love for good food, eclectic fashion and inspired by the likes of JK Rowling, Charles Bukowski and Allen Ginsberg.


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