Proenza Schouler Woman Spring Summer 2017 – Compared to their first few collections, a rich darkness and vibrancy in texture and colour have descended into their work, giving life and movement to the clothing where in the beginning there was simply less so. While not a complete turnaround for the designers, the use of such assertive colors and graphic prints is a bold leap forward from their previous work.
Like their spring season from last year, bows tied at the front of looks, though this season it was not ribbons but knots from the fabric of the pieces themselves. Bias cut peplums rippled from dresses and tops, while feathers circled the waist and hemlines of checkered dresses. Royal blue buttons zig-zagged across the doubled-breast of a black-and-white striped jacket, and twist clasps closed the front of oversized jackets that brought firefighters to mind. Large t-shirts were layered over long sleeved shirts, with cut out images of statues and hands creating a window-like effect.
Patterns that were nearly optical illusions were seen throughout, some bringing to mind the distracting patterning found on exotic insects. Almond and heart-shaped cutouts left sweaters gaping, contrasted by wrapped tops of a stripe and polka-dot fabric. Stripes infested the collection, both graphically printed and hand-made.
Platform sandals, long earrings shaped like horse shoes, and leather bags with woven details accessorised this season, along with bright rings of varying width. Flat cut stones decorated the clasp on one white leather clutch. Such an exciting evolution from both the beginnings of the brand and even the more recent collections has no doubt startled the attention of more than one fan and created anticipation throughout the rest.
Proenza Schouler Woman Spring Summer 2017