Maison Margiela Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2016 – Not unlike his Spring/Summer collection for the house, John Galliano could again cite Sci-Fi as a theme that ran through this couture collection. A clean white coat opened the collection, a short trench coat with an uneven hem and a slit at the back below the collar, through which the waifish model’s long, blonde hair swayed. These unusual trenches continued, spiraling further from the norm with a fuzzy gold collar and a tear at the right breast showing a colorful fabric beneath, or an iridescent charcoal swatch running from the shoulder down across to the thigh.
A punky theme pervaded as the collection progressed, the patchwork of conflicting patterns increasing, featuring bright, colorful illustrations on black t-shirts and dramatically painted makeup. An ode to Bowie was clear in several looks, in the form of striking eye makeup below lank, orange or black mullets. Deconstruction and reconstruction of garments emerged, whether in the form of an oversized pinstripe shirt decorated with the pieces of a lighter-colored blouse, or in an ethereal, open-backed piece in white silk beneath a cloud of sheer black silk.
The collection closed on increasingly strange and beautiful creations; a black dress with the right side of the bodice swathed in a gold fabric with silver splotches and gold trim trailed feathers and gave a peak at the lower back. An enormous, dark royal-blue bomber jacket bloomed into a display of blue, black, yellow and gold silk folds that provided a climactic finish to the show. Tubular knee-high boots with wedged heels commanded the footwear of the show, beginning in shiny black and brown, developing to scarf-swathed pieces, a pair in two-tone glitter, and a plethora of printed or lace-patterned pairs.
Maison Margiela Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2016