Viktor & Rolf
Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2016 – Twenty-two sculptural, white pieces are what emerged in this latest collection from Viktor and Rolf. Picasso-like faces peer from collared dresses, featuring dramatic shoulders and asymmetrical hemlines. The blunt white of each dress was contrasted only by dark navy combat boots and a solitary seal featuring “V&S” on several. Layers of fabric overlap to create these surreal faces, giving the impression of a stark origami collage.
As the collection progressed, more fantastical shapes made up the pieces, moving from faces, hands and breasts to swirling hair that obscured the models’ faces completely by the final few pieces.
The last look resembled a cubist totem pole constructed from sheets of paper, faces stacked atop each other with a ruffled bottom, crowned with a stiff polo shirt.
While use of clothing to influence space, as well as an inclusion of art, is familiar ground to these Amsterdam-based designers, though such stark constructions that reach such dramatic heights is a new edge to their generally avant-garde style. The structural cast of this collection draws the show far beyond the norm, transcending the line couture walks between fashion and art.
Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2016