Ann Demeulemeester Woman Autumn-Winter 2016 – Gothic black ruled the runway at Ann Demeulemeester as Sebastien Meunier showcased his take on the trouser suit.
There was a slouchy formality to the designs, with trousers wide-cut or shortened to above the ankle to create a sense of movement and relaxed elegance. The suit jackets, too, ranged from oversized floaty coats to cropped styles, sometimes in velvet or suede and at others given a metallic, rocker-style makeover. In fact, the designer himself was not dressed dissimilarly, showcasing a black jacket and albeit tighter leather trousers at the end.
Draping was also of the utmost importance with shirts tucked in just so to ensure that despite the sweeping layers, a flattering silhouette was not lost to the fabric. A particular highlight was the use of waistcoats, which extended this take on nonchalant formality to the three-piece suit. Sometimes hardly distinguishable from the jackets layered over them, the vests often took the place of a shirt, emphasising the models’ waists and giving a convincingly nod to masculinity whilst also providing elegant sex appeal.
Ann Demeulemeester Woman Autumn-Winter 2016