Autumn-Winter 2011/12 – Opening with a black suit that looked almost like scrubs or a hospital uniform of sorts Kris Van Assche established a morbid atmosphere that didn’t diminish throughout the show. Suits that looked almost like mental hospital attire; the models sported long unkempt hair and had pale faces. This was followed with baggy trousers suits in the style of a 40s gangster with round toe clumpy soled shoes and large rimmed bowler hats. Large swathes of fabric drowned the models and untailored tops with tailored trousers, rounded shoulders and double faceted jackets enhanced the fluidity he was trying to convey. “After summer, which was really very fluid, it was a challenge to make a winter season seem fluid. Obviously, materials are thicker and are layered.” The collection has an air of anti-establishment about it, with models in suits with earrings, scruffiness where it looks like it should be smart and featured only greys and blacks with 2 or 3 red pieces thrown in. These seemed slightly out of place, in the collections austerity.