Autumn-Winter 2012/13 – The anticipation surrounding the Dior show needs no longwinded explanation, only a name: Raf Simons. In the midst of the flowered walls and ceilings, Simons was to present his first Dior Couture collection. Famed for his minimalist ways, and though pertaining to his reputation at first with neat black bar jackets, iconic nipped waists and lean cigarette trousers, this bubble quickly burst. Swiftly, the trousers sat beneath bustier dresses – clean and modern teamed with embroidered elegance – the dresses had been chopped short to give a new dimension to the typical billowy Couture gown. The models sported straight hair and modernist touches of bright lipstick and eyeshadow. That said, the historic Dior references were there: strapless gowns, clinched waists and skirt lengths sitting at mid-calf. The connection between old and new symbolised a different era at Dior with Simons at the helm of design – certainly any traces of Galliano had been removed.