Viktor & Rolf
Autumn-Winter 2013/14 – For Viktor & Rolf, Couture usually means a splatter of colour, along with a display of theatrical designs. This time round they offered something entirely different. It was the simplest of colour palettes – black – but it was by no means bland. The basic palette offered the perfect easel for the duo to sketch out their silhouette. At first, it was a spongy aesthetic, with a ballooned dress. The fabric was thick, and acted like armor around the models. In one instance, it became a shell, encasing the model from the neck downwards like a cocoon. There was a lot of draping as different lengths were played with. The clothes acted as duvets and sleeping bags. They entrenched the body, with only single zips at the shoulders allowing for escape. Embellishment was kept to a bare minimum, with only black coils being used around the hem and on the body. It may have been the most basic of colour palettes, but the design was as innovative as always.