Menswear trends: shapes for Fall/Winter 2014/15
Double-breasted
On suits and coats double-breasted was the way to go this season.
Like many designers in Paris, young Croatian-German talent Damir Doma served up a series of slick double-breasted trench coats in a range of dark fabrics and finishes.
At the more sartorial end of the design spectrum, Brioni’s Brendan Mullane experimented with a range of different double-breasted suits in stunning blues and grays.
Meanwhile at Gucci, Frida Giannini went with high-collared mod-style jackets which featured two lines of buttons. The 60s London look appeared on both casual pieces and more formal suiting.
Military
This season’s military trend offered brands a chance to experiment with both old and new iterations of classic army style. At Dior Homme, Kris Van Assche went for a revived version of the classic American M65 field jacket, mixing the iconic green shade with denim, and maximizing the functional pockets.
Cerruti had a few more retro military great coats (double-breasted of course) and Dries Van Noten served up some of the same shapes.
The weirdest twist on the trend was probably at Walter Van Beirendonck’s bright and bold show. London-based milliner Stephen Jones created a series of ironic Wehrmacht helmets in colored felt for the Belgian designer.
Luxe sweatshirts
These luxury sweatshirts are fast becoming a cornerstone of most brands’ retail offering; something like the male version of a statement shoe or handbag, they are instantly recognizable, but totally unfussy.
Neil Barrett had great success with his colorblocked sweats over the past couple of seasons. He was too sensible to miss a trick and served up a few new versions including an electrifying bonded lightning design.
Kenzo’s Carol Lim and Humberto practically started this trend on their own with their Kenzo Tiger shirts. Their latest collection featured sweatshirts with a collage-style moon river scene inspired by upstate California and another design which mixed geometric patterns with printed slogans.
For his Calvin Klein Collection line Italo Zucchelli played with our ‘Obsession’, creating felted pieces and molded leather sweatshirts with classic Calvin Klein slogans and scent names, all an attempt at stretching city chic from his sportiest pieces.
