Menswear trends: fabrics for Fall/Winter 2014/15
Tartans and checks
In London Alexander McQueen and Casely-Hayford used tartan to nod back to the city’s punk heritage. Meanwhile Agi & Sam went for a clash of tribal checks, streetwear and monochrome minimalism to create one of London’s standout collections.
Over in Milan, Stefano Pilati focused parts of his second season at Ermenegildo Zegna on a sartorial blue and gray check which appeared on luxurious coats and classic suiting.
In the French capital Carven and Cerruti both picked out the Scottish fabric as a key feature but showed more muted tartans in cream, brown, and dark rust tones. At 3.1 Phillip Lim, the designer took it a step further with a washed-out check pattern.
Sportswear
Galliano’s Bill Gaytten was inspired by Parisian joggers and sent his models out in finely knitted versions of running compression pants, which he teamed with colorful sneakers.
At Issey Miyake, designer Yusuke Takahashi took some classic sporty features including zippers, technical fabrics, sneakers and the aforementioned leggings (layered under shorts), and added extraordinary technicolor prints.
Korean designer Wooyoungmi also mixed in a hint of sportswear, adding comfortable touches to this season’s minimalist tailoring.
At Givenchy, creative director Riccardo Tisci seemed to be looking ahead to his forthcoming Nike collaboration. His basketball-themed collection brought to mind Space Jam aliens, streetwear and hip-hop luxury.
Fur details
This trend wasn’t about full-on fur coats (although they did exist), but more about using furs and other skins to provide accent points on other pieces.
Lanvin used it in a colorful punky way, with choppy trimmed fur adding a kind of soft yet spikey ridge to jackets. Fendi adapted the material to sweaters and coats, but went all out with a full-fur lined runway.
Givenchy’s hip-hop vision of urban luxury living saw models appear in a sort of fur bandeau top/scarf hybrid. Elsewhere the material appeared as a ruff collar on down-filled outerwear and was even aped as a trompe-l’oeil photo print which appeared on a sweatshirt.
