Haute couture shows: highlights from the last day

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Serkan Cura

The latest haute couture collection from the young Belgian-trained designer known for his work with feathers did not disappoint. As if sculpted by hand, the garments — most of which were adorned with feathers — enveloped the models’ bodies with impressive precision. Serkan Cura’s designs drew attention to the shoulders and to the waists, which were accentuated with corsets. The designer presented a feathery ostrich dress (which inevitably called to mind Jean Paul Gaultier’s butterfly dresses presented earlier this week) and a remarkable asymmetrical dress that exposed one breast. Several models wore platform heels and carried dramatic fans that matched their outfits.

Zuhair Murad

The Lebanese couturier drew inspiration from the garden for this latest collection, and the results were simply ravishing. Most of the looks seen on the runway were long, airy dresses in pastel tones (turquoise, lavender, pink, off-white) or ample-skirted dresses embroidered with plenty of flowers, tone-on-tone or in various colors, but almost always in subtle, powdery shades. Here as well, the designer focused attention on the waists, accenting them with gold leaf designs. As we have come to expect from a Zuhair Murad collection, the embroidery was exceptional.

Ralph & Russo

Black and white were the prevailing colors in this collection from stylists Tamara Ralph and Michael Russo, who emphasized geometric tailoring, billowing volumes and transparent effects. There were few prints but plenty of embroidery and beadwork. Thin belts and hourglass designs called attention to the waist, and the necklines were far more modest than in the majority of haute couture collections this season. Among the highlights of the collection were a voluminous dress with a wide opening at the front, worn over ankle pants in the same color and with long, embroidered gloves.

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