Haute couture shows: highlights from day 4
Maison Martin Margiela
The famous fashion house unveiled the most extravagant collection seen so far during this haute couture fashion week. Their faces hidden by masks, the models wore highly colorful, retro, art-inspired and asymmetrical outfits or, in a stark contrast, ultra-refined strapless evening gowns draped in silk satin. A few dresses were printed to resemble tattoos. The combination seemed to delight those in attendance at this spectacular show.
Frank Sorbier
Presented on an enormous black and white checkerboard, the French designer’s collection emphasized geometric prints, often seen in billowing bubble dresses with multiple patterns, one of which included an impressive landscape-style print on a white background. While a few ensembles had high hems (namely, a few fresh takes on shorts and on short jumpsuits), the majority of the skirts came down to the knee or the ankle.
Elie Saab
The Lebanese designer lived up to his reputation with yet another enchanting show. Each of the fairy-tale princess looks presented differed from the last but was tied into the common theme of embroidery, whether shimmery (sequins, beads, rhinestones and other reflective elements lit up the catwalk) or floral. Models wore long, airy gowns or ample skirted ones, all of which we could easily see coming to the red carpet. The only exceptions: two calf-length suits. In contrast with the other collections of the season, necklines were rather high at Elie Saab, though embroidery and transparent effects provided a mysterious and sensual aspect to the area. In terms of colors, the collection was eclectic featuring everything from powdery pastel tones to bright red, gold, slate blue, midnight blue and black.
Rad Hourani
A star-studded audience attended the presentation of the designer’s latest unisex collection, consisting of geometric tailoring and monochromatic ensembles, primarily in black. The line consists of several transformable, multipurpose items that are not only stylish but also functional — a word that rarely applies to haute couture creations. The designer’s new short unisex jacket, for example, can be transformed into around a dozen other garments, including a skirt, corset or cape. The top accessory of the collection: ultra-long, stiff belts.
Jean Paul Gaultier
Butterflies provided the inspiration behind this latest captivating haute couture collection from JPG. Whether in prints, embroidery, or in the tailoring of collars and cuffs, butterflies were everywhere. Dita Von Teese made an appearance on the catwalk in a glamorous and refined blue and black corseted dress resembling a giant butterfly, following in the footsteps of French TV reality star Nabilla, who guest starred in last season’s show in a panther-woman ensemble. Suits, jumpsuits, and evening gowns were on display, all made with refined materials such as organza, raw silk, muslin and tulle. The design house also presented a few looks with a more rebellious spirit, including a backless satin dress worn with a Swarovski-crystal-embroidered denim jacket.
