Twill/Denim Manufacture

Twill weave is probably the second most common form of weaving, after Plain weave. Twill weave differs from plain weave in the fact that it follows the pattern of two under, two over. The warp yarns are anchored to either end of the loom in a stable and evenly spaced manner. The weft yarn is then interwoven through the warp yarns. This goes two under and then over two warp yarns.

Twill weave can be characterised by the diagonal rib lines running through the finished piece of fabric. These diagonal lines are often quite recognisable, especially when two different coloured yarns are used. These ribs are often called ‘Twills.’ Variations of the twill weave can also be the 3/1 twill pattern and the 2/1 twill pattern, depending on how defined the twill weave needs to be.

Types of fabrics made from Twill weave are Denim, Chino, Drill, Garbadine and Herringbone fabrics. Denim is probably the most common twill weave fabric. It is made using one set of indigo yarns and another set of white yarns. This helps to create a contrast so that the twill is more noticeable.

Twill weave can be made using cotton, which is the most common, wool, worsted and some synthetic fibres.

Properties of Twill/Denim Fabric

  • Drape well
  • Strong
  • Durable
  • Abrasion resistance
  • Soft
  • Pliable
  • Versatile
  • Flexible
  • Available in various colours
  • Often colour woven
  • Heavy
  • Air and water resistant

End Uses of Twill/Denim Fabric

  • Jeans is the most common use of twill weave
  • Chinos
  • Shirts
  • Jackets
  • Handbags
  • Hats
  • Handbags

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Written by Kelly Mitchell

Kelly Mitchell, extremely competent and reliable, she is currently in her third year at the University of Lincoln UK, studying Fashion. Kelly is responsible for the Fabrics, Fibers and Leathers sections of our Dictionary

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