Sateen Manufacture

Sateen weave produces a closely woven satin-like fabric. It is usually made from cotton and has a smooth, shiny surface. This is made by floating the weft yarns so that they dominate the face of the fabric. The visible interlacing of yarns is minimised so that the surface is completely flat and uniform.

Sateen fabric is produced on a loom, like most other woven fabrics. It also has several warp yarns that are anchored at either end of the loom so that they are stable and evenly spaced. It is the warp yarn that is then interwoven through these warp yarns. Instead on the one under, one over pattern that plain weave follows, it usually goes one under the warp yarns and then over several warp yarns. The number of under yarns is minimised to that the surface is lustrous. The longer the floats (which are where when the weft ‘floats’ over several yarns) the shinier the surface texture. The most common construction is one under and four over in terms of the weft.

The sheen of Sateen fabric mat be further heightened by the use of mercerised cotton yarns. These yarns are more lustrous than regular cotton yarns and produce a fabric with a better sheen. Sateen fabrics can be bleached, dyed or printed, depending on what it is going to be used for.

Properties of Sateen Fabric

  • Similar to satin
  • Less expensive
  • Soft
  • Smooth
  • Closely woven
  • Lustrous Surface
  • Can be produced in various weights
  • Strong
  • Durable
  • Machine washable
  • Dyes easily
  • Breathable

End Uses of Sateen Fabric

  • Used mainly for linings
  • Inexpensive substitute for Satin
  • Dresses
  • Popular since the early 1900’s
  • Often used in women’s undergarments because of the softness

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Written by Kelly Mitchell

Kelly Mitchell, extremely competent and reliable, she is currently in her third year at the University of Lincoln UK, studying Fashion. Kelly is responsible for the Fabrics, Fibers and Leathers sections of our Dictionary

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