Yohji Yamamoto Woman Autumn-Winter 2016 – Yohji Yamamoto continued with his signature approach to tailoring, with oversized draping and his favourite colour scheme, black, taking centre stage in his autumn/winter collection.
The chosen structures were very androgynous, with long, sweeping coats seeming to join seamlessly with wide legged trousers. Pockets were also a constant feature, with the models’ hands often lost within the extended sleeves and folds of the designs, although the often V-cut styles, sometimes to the belly button, hinted at the feminine silhouette beneath the layers of draped fabric.
The few white designs that broke up the collection operated to emphasis its futuristic inspiration. Whilst not tapping into Space Age exuberance, the clean lines and monochrome contrasts appeared otherworldly, as did the seemingly post-apocalyptic message of ‘I will be back soon’ on one of the concluding looks, with the white paint creating a chilling contrast to the all black piece.
The makeup was designed to stand out too with the models’ mouths turned into trout pouts by black and white lipstick paired with thin lines extending from the mouth and a thin almost cat-ear inspired pencil marking above the eyebrow. Hair, too, reinforced the gothic with the majority slicked back to allow focus to remain on a long silky black hair piece extending across one shoulder.
Yohji Yamamoto Woman Autumn-Winter 2016