Thom Browne Woman Spring Summer 2017 – From the first moment, a feeling of looking into a warped dollhouse accompanied the show. The models emerged from backstage in voluminous bathing gowns, complete with matching shower caps and handbags, in pastel patterns straight from the 1960’s. A poolside display was the goal, and a bevy of Barbies with bouffants were there to realise it. Bright blue lipstick and large or reflective glasses disguised and warped the models’ faces, many of which were covered in an orangey powder that mimicked a spray tan. Combined with stiff choreography and hands held in doll-like poses, a perverted vision of dolls was exactly the effect.
Sheath dresses of varying lengths made their way down the runway, looking for a moment like skirt suits, button down shirts and tailored jackets, before the realisation dawned that this was merely a trompe de l’oeil. The first look was a dress of silver sequins, which gave way at the right shoulder to a striped jacket and tie, topped with a disco ball headdress shaped like the head of Hector, Browne’s dog. Pleated skirts, tailored blazers, cardigans and vests are all displayed in caricature form, buttons, ties and bowties included.
While hemlines rose to the mid-thigh on occasion, the necklines never dipped far below the collarbone. Mismatched shoes bedecked the models’ feet, ranging from strappy sandals, to anchor and whale-heeled espadrilles. Bright ginghams overlaid with palm fronds, pastel orange checkers paired with blue stripes, and hibiscus flowers patterned the rest. Several models clutched pastel gingham versions of Hector. The show ended with models removing these dresses, except the silver-clad model, and reclining around the pool in striped, halterneck swimsuits that bared backs and covered bottoms. The show continued, and the effect pervaded further, a bizarre and bright vision that will not soon leave the viewer.
Thom Browne Woman Spring Summer 2017