Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2016 – This season departed from the 1930’s and ‘40’s silhouettes of last season, adopting more contemporary lines while still maintaining a keen reference to Schiaparelli’s original designs. The first gown featured dinner places superimposed on a red-striped, cream background, above a hem decorated with a table that was set with various accoutrements.
Several white skirt suits followed, paired with below-the-knee white boots, one featuring a cracked looking cape over a bright yellow blouse that resembled a cracked egg.
The decorations and embroidered details included flowers, plants and vegetables, sea creatures and somewhat more random inanimate objects, against the white and off-white backgrounds of the clothes. Several pieces featured a single embroidered eye at the base of the neck, while one skirt was decorated with embroidered teacups.
As the collection progressed, the pieces took on greater colour and shape, including sheer, frilled and pleated dresses, and skirts with dizzying designs that echoed the more architecturally patterned jackets they were paired with. Delicate gowns flowed past in bright colours, featuring whimsically patterned fabrics from lines of cutlery to insects intermingled with locks and pastries. One gown featured a bright red lobster across the bodice, no doubt a tribute to Elsa’s own Lobster Dress from 1937.
The final seven gowns took on a simplicity the rest of the collection did not share, layers of sheer, pastel fabrics in distinctly Grecian shapes, occasionally adorned with small embroideries or appliqués.
Beauty: Each model wore voluminous, crimped pigtails, adding both movement and shape to the looks. While the makeup maintained a natural look for the most part, the models’ eyebrows were emphasized, whether painted over with white, or darkened to a thick, black line.
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2016