Marchesa Woman Spring Summer 2017 – Floating, iridescent gowns swept down the runway in Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig’s latest collection for Marchesa. Frothy, billowy gowns came between sleek, silken evening dresses, exuding a fairy-tale vision of femininity.
The first gown appeared light and breezy, appearing held together by the ribbons that circled the throat and bosom; silk flower petals and the occasional blossom decorated the airy tulle that fell in folds from the collarbone to the trailing skirt. Silk flowers abounded in the collection, among other classic symbols of female fertility; silver beaded heads of wheat decorated the silver bodice and hemlines of a figure-hugging gown, bringing to mind Demeter, the Greek goddess of spring and fertility. These themes continue, both in the decoration, and in the sensual cuts and shapes of the gowns.
A pleated, opalescent gown, decorated at the waist and shoulders with feathers, lace, and fanning pleats, resembles mother-of-pearl, and leads one to recall Botticelli’s Birth of Venus. Peacocks kiss below the collarbone, echoing the curving shape thereof, their tails decorating the sleeves and skirt in a pale golden color, perhaps a hint to Hera, the queen of Greek deities. Horses rear on more than one bodices, the fringe on one gown in particular seeming to become their tails, sparkling and shaking with the dresses movement. Among the pale pinks, blues, violets and peaches, black dresses appear, some shorter and lace-trimmed cocktail looks, others longer and sleek. One black gown, belted with a ribbon and scooping below the throat, is covered in beaded butterflies, the full skirt stopping to reveal the ankles before sweeping backward in a short train.
Frills and ruffles are artfully arranged to add movement and shape, elevating silhouettes and offering novelty to a collection full of delicate evening looks. Bias cuts, peplums, ruffles and frills all cumulate to bring this feminine collection into a celestial realm.
Marchesa Woman Spring Summer 2017