Junya Watanabe Woman Autumn-Winter 2016 – 3D construction combined with fashion in a collection perfectly summed up by Watanabe himself as ‘Hyper Construction Dress’.
At first, the dominant colour was black with ruffled skirt constructions achieving a striking softness and femininity despite the often sharp and angular shapes on show.
Likewise, regardless of how heavy the designs actually were, the selection of pleated cut-out pieces worn as both skirts and jumpers portrayed a sense of movement despite their actual rigidity. This meant that the eye was very often tricked into seeing some looks as consisting of more traditional material, as with the red paperchain-esque ‘jumper’ that was structured to flow off the model’s shoulders into sleeves.
The use of 3D headgear then took the pieces into another world entirely, quite literally in some cases with the models’ heads encased in circular black constructions that seemed to resemble planets. At times these shapes again tricked the eye into seeing some conventionally, as in the ringed design that resembled a formal hat, but more often than not they were strikingly angular, reinforcing the sci-fi nature of the technology reliant collection.
Aside from the shapes, the look was kept very simple with the models appearing as blank canvases onto which the designs gave energy and physicality. Hair that wasn’t covered by one of Watanabe’s creations was slicked back under black swimming hats, with any exposed limbs covered by shiny black leggings and long-sleeved scoop neck t-shirts. At times therefore you almost forget the zany pieces were modelled outfits, instead appearing like walking works of contemporary art.
Junya Watanabe Woman Autumn-Winter 2016