Christian Dior Women Autumn-Winter 2015 – Over at Dior, creative director Raf Simons was experimenting. Attempting to move the brand into a new direction and away from that of a flower-filled past, which he executes so brilliantly.
Simons was on a mission to create a line that was sinister and had animal like motifs running through. His show notes read “I wanted that feeling of sensory overload in the collection, with this animalistic sexual woman wearing a new kind of camouflage.”
Going back to its roots, a contemporary version of an old panther print that Christian Dior used in 1947 (revolutionary for its time) was reworked into swirl motifs which appeared throughout the collection.
Harness dresses and hacked hems on wool tweed skirts gave a sexy and edgier vibe. But at heart Simons is a modernist and so his gorgeous, tailored aesthetic was apparent throughout the collection with oversized coats, and tailored suits in fine tweeds. These fabrics were paired with clashing abstract print tops, and dresses, and skin tight wet-look boots.
Always one to nail the feminine silhouette, this AW15 was no different, there was a reference to the 60s with a selection of graphic turtlenecks, trouser suits and black shift dresses.
Abstract feline or zebra patterned jacquard knitted dresses, tops and second skin jumpsuits looked like modern day pop art camouflage. The colour palette was one of earth rich tones; deep sea blue, burnt orange, brown, forest green and stone grey with lashings of yellow, pink and purple. Models strutted down the catwalk in animal like printed glossy patent boots carrying structural bags with similar motifs.
Hair was worn with a deep side parting and a gathered into a sleek side ponytail matched with a natural face and block eye shadow – with each model wearing a different colour.
Although the collection didn’t quite live up to his show notes, Simons interpreted the codes of the French fashion house in a modern and relevant way.
Christian Dior Women Autumn-Winter 2015