Oxford Weave

Oxford Weave Technique

Oxford Weave Manufacture

Oxford weave originated in England in the late 19th Century. It is actually a variation of the Basket weave and uses a coloured weft and a white warp. This creates a subtle basket effect with white overtones.  This weave can be created using many different yarns in various weights and thicknesses. Originally Oxford weave was made using primarily cotton, but nowadays many other fibres are used including Polyester, Viscose and other synthetic fibres.

Oxford weave also usually uses a fine yarn in one direction and a thicker fill yarn in the other. This unbalanced construction means that the finer fibres are very prone to breaking. This causes tiny pinholes in the fabric and this is how Oxford weave is recognised. Many manufacturers have tried to minimise the breakage of the yarns be twisting them before they are woven.

A variation of this is called Royal Oxford weave and the warp is made from two very fine yarns that are woven as one. The weft uses a heavier yarn that is softly spun and a fill yarn. The produces a fabric that mimics silk and is very lustrous.

Properties of Oxford Weave Fabrics

  • Coarse and Heavy
  • Comfortable to wear
  • Larger weave
  • Soft
  • Versatile
  • Lustrous
  • Breathable
  • Easy to care for
  • Washable
  • Hold its shape
  • Casual fabric
  • Sturdy
  • Durable
  • Heavier than voile and muslin

End Uses of Oxford Weave Fabrics

  • Oxford Shirts
  • Royal Oxford weave is used in the manufacture of expensive formal shirts as it is more lustrous
  • Sportswear
  • Walking Clothes
  • Shorts
  • Garments that need to be breathable

Oxford Weave Technique

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Kelly Mitchell

Written by Kelly Mitchell

Kelly Mitchell, extremely competent and reliable, she is currently in her third year at the University of Lincoln UK, studying Fashion. Kelly is responsible for the Fabrics, Fibers and Leathers sections of our Dictionary


One thought on “Oxford Weave

  1. Oxford Weave is so called becauase originally there were four different cloths named after the four most influential Universities of the time. These were Harvard, Oxford, Yale and Cambridge. All of these fabrics were manufacuted in a Scottish Mill in the 19th Century. Nowadays, however Oxford is the only one popular still. There are many variations of Oxford Cloth such as Pinpoint Oxford and Royal Oxford.

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