How the Mary Jane Went From Classic School Shoe to Winter It Shoe

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Did you wear Mary Janes to school? The classic shoe design has long been associated with the innocence of school days. Mary Jane from the Buster Brown comic may have first made it popular, but 20th-century designers took the concept and did wonderful things with it.

The cutesy strap design and closed fit were a perfect concept for school, a veritable mix of style and practicality. Back then, it wasn’t even a strongly feminized design: after all, both Mary and Buster wore the shoes.

As time has passed, however, Mary Janes have taken on a new avatar. They are no longer just the nostalgic footwear of our childhood but also appear in avant-garde fashion shows. With winter collections coming up, and the winds around us changing, Mary seems to be in for a revival. That is, if she had ever left at all.

So, how did that happen? How did a quintessential school footwear look become synonymous with fashion-forward?

 

Mary Janes in Youth Fashion and Punk

Fashion has always helped people express themselves, saying things they don’t find words for. With Mary Janes and their prim-and-properness, things were a canvas waiting to be subverted.

In the early days, these shoes exuded femininity, conformity, and even discipline. Yeah, much like expectations from school back then. But as the world witnesses with young people in every era, it didn’t stay that way for long.

Teenagers and young adults started embracing the design as a blueprint: something they could play with. Mary Jane was a symbol of living in this period, but also an idea to infuse individuality into.

The world started to see Mary Janes in chic, playful styles. They had higher heels. Bold colors. Leather finishes. Definitely not restricted to schoolgirl territory anymore.

When the punk subculture set in, often credited to Vivienne Westwood, things took an even more drastic turn. As the Victoria and Albert Museum puts it, Westwood’s style was a mix of provocation and respect for tradition.

The movement inspired youngsters to take their “seriously edgy” looks onto the street. Punk was essentially deconstructionist fashion; it challenged older beliefs and expressed ones that broke conventions.

Although Mary Janes were not at the center of this movement, they definitely set the stage for future fashion movements. Their scope for using punk themes to reinvent was immense.

 

Preppy and Retro Redefine Nostalgia

While fashion cycles have their place in the scheme of things, a huge part of Mary Janes’ enduring appeal comes from nostalgia. The visual vocabulary of these shoes makes it easy to adapt them to preppy styles and retro-inspired designs.

Traditionally, people paired them with the classic tailored-vibe outfits. Think pleated skirts and cardigans. But slowly, they expanded from school and collegiate dressing to more contemporary styling. Today, they appear with all kinds of outfits, from oversized dresses to sheer tights.

Earlier this year, Anne Hathaway wore black Mary Jane heels to a The Devil Wears Prada 2 event. It went amazingly with her white T-shirt and gray pleated skirt.

The idea is that one can still be grown-up without losing their childlike demeanor and readiness to experiment. As Perroquet Shoes reflects, these pieces remain warm and heritage-inspired. But the recontextualization has given them several meanings, some of them even rebellious.

No wonder not everyone likes the mutation. A British Vogue feature highlights the “Mary Jane-ification of everything,” urging fashionistas to leave the classic style untampered. This comes from the new trend of adopting Mary Jane aesthetics into various kinds of footwear, including sneakers and ballet flats.

“The Mary Jane is like a virus, and it doesn’t appear to be slowing down. If we’re not careful, we’ll have Mary Jane wellies and Mary Jane crocs and Mary Jane hiking boots. Oh wait, all of those things already exist.” – Daisy Jones, Author, All The Things She Said.

 

Capturing the Warm Winter Vibe

As cooler days sneak up on the world, one can expect Mary Janes to remain at the center stage as a prominent option for pairing with winterwear. Its inherent look and feel connect beautifully with winter vocabulary, from leather to dark colors. (This is also why many brands prioritize warm shades of red, brown, and black for this footwear.)

But there’s ample reason why Mary Jane works so well as a Winter It Shoe. For one, they snugly accommodate socks and tights. Since the toe is closed, the overall look works when you’re dressed in heavier, season-appropriate clothing. In fact, if you find options with patent finishes, they can complement winter textures and knitwear exquisitely.

That said, the best part is that they make an interesting pick for exuding different vibes this winter. Posh versus streetstyle? You got it. Feminine versus unisex? Check.

 

 

We daresay it is a powerful styling trend to look different this season, doing away with grim boots that have been staples for years. Some people even prefer them for practicality reasons: they may dry faster than heavier, thicker counterparts after a sudden winter rain shower.

Anyhow, if you do get stuck with malodor, activated charcoal bags and cedar inserts are handy ways to fix shoe smell. As a rule, avoid harsh cleaning, which includes popping them into the washing machine, until the manufacturer explicitly says it is safe to do so.

And when the golden sunshine streams into your home, just air dry them until all the moisture has gone.

 

Mary’s Living the Good Life

For now, we can safely expect these retro shoes to continue to delight and adapt with the times. They work so well with so many outfits, and contribute to creating so many vibes, from romantic to minimalist, that their time under the sun seems far from over.

It’s a good life.

 

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Written by Lola McQuenzie

Lola is one of our busiest writer. She has worked for Catwalk Yourself since 2007. Lola started working with us after she graduating from Central St Martins


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