Shoes: Pleasure and Pain; All We Need to Know about the PEM exhibition
Shoes: Pleasure and Pain; All We Need to Know about the PEM exhibition
From Mary-Janes and espadrilles, to the wedge heel and the classic Parisian pump, there can be no doubt as to how shoes, and their various signature designs, have helped to shape and form moments of fashion history. One exhibition has recognised the importance of such moments, from the Vivienne Westwood blue platforms that caused Naomi Campbell’s infamous stumble on the runway in 1993, to the neat courts so often favored by Queen Elizabeth II.
Sebastian Errazuriz, “The Cry Baby” and “The Rock,” from the “12 Shoes for 12 Lovers” collection, 2013, 3D-printed acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene polymer, resin, and acrylic. Museum purchase, 2015, Peabody Essex Museum. © 2016 Peabody Essex Museum. Photography by Kathy Tarantola
Peabody Essex Museum (PEM) is continuing to build its reputation for fashion and design with this fall’s exciting exhibition: “Shoes: Pleasure and Pain,’ a Victoria and Albert Museum organised display that explores ‘the creativity of footwear from around the globe.’ The dazzling exhibition considers the ‘cultural significance and transformative capacity of shoes,’ and features in excess of 300 pairs by more than 130 celebrated designers including such greats as Manolo Blahnik, Christian Louboutin, Salvatore Ferragamo, Christian Dior, Jimmy Choo and Prada.
Jacques Heim, for Shain’s, shoes, about 1960, silk, leather, rhinestones, metal, and glass beads. Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Allen Sweet, 2000, Peabody Essex Museum. © 2016 Peabody Essex Museum. Photography by Kathy Tarantola.
Amongst the vast collection of shoes will be an interesting dichotomy between old and new, with historic pure gold leaf detailed Egyptian sandals contrasting with revolutionary futuristic shoes made on a 3-D printer. Historic options will also include the lotus shoe, made for bound feet and 16th-century chopines. By contrast, the more forward- thinking styles include the form-pressed Nova shoes designed by Zaha Hadid with an unsupported 6.2-inch heel and Andreia Chaves’ Invisible Naked shoes that ‘fuse optical illusion with 3-D printing and high-quality leather-making techniques.’ Furthermore, some of the most iconic celebrity shoes will also make up the collection, with styles worn by everyone from David Beckham, to Elton John and Daphne Guinness, all of which have played central roles within modern popular culture.
Roger Vivier for Christian Dior, Beaded evening shoes, 1958-1960 © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
Visitors to PEM can expect to pour over beautiful sketches, embellishments and shoe lasts, such as those created by H. & M. Rayne for Princess Diana, which will undoubtedly form an integral part of the display. Further to this will be several styles from Iris Apfel and the late Bostonian Marilyn Riseman.
Museumgoers will also enjoy informative contextual film clips and videos to help guide them through the various themes which will include, ‘Transformation; Status (with subsections All Eyes on Me, Follow Me, The Way You Move and High Society); Seduction; Creation (with subsections Craft & Construction, Explore & Experiment and Supply & Demand), and Obsession,’ all of which will contribute to a creative, inspiring and fascinating exhibit.
Artist in Venice, Italy, chopines, about 1600, punched leather and pine. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
In an exciting and interesting twist, the PEM Shop ‘will sell more than 80 shoes for men and women, representing 20 designers from 15 countries, including Italy, Germany, Pakistan and Columbia. There will also be several designs commissioned exclusively for the store.’
‘Shoes: Pleasure and Pain,’ will run at Peabody Essex Museum from November 19, 2016 to March 12, 2017.
Shoes: Pleasure and Pain; All We Need to Know about the PEM exhibition
