Oscar de la Renta
Oscar de la Renta Woman Spring Summer 2017 – White eyelet lace opened the Oscar de la Renta show today, gently hugging the hips and swaying gracefully around ankles and knees. One dress covered the model from throat to wrist to ankle in a dotted sheer material, with delicately puffed sleeves. Intensely black belts broke up the white wash of the first several dresses, opening the transition from white into black and reds. A tiered ruffle dress embraced every curve, the red eyelet material giving a glimpse of the form beneath, while a cropped top embellished with jewels lifted a woven skirt and jacket beyond the feeling of a sweater set.
In a moment of transition, the in-house team designed this latest collection, and the results at moments feels like a retrospective. Tribal patterns on long skirts and dresses recall certain 1970’s collections, while cropped tops seek to bring them into the now. The tribal prints pass again in shapeless, beachy dresses, and a shiny, pleated evening dress recalls high-end disco halls, the waist cinched by a tied a girdle belt. A pale red dress closed the show, with puff sleeves that leave the shoulders on view and dips ever-so-gently to reveal a hint of cleavage, recalled the dramatic sleeves that contrasted the slim silhouettes in the 1980’s. A disjointed combination of archival influences and current trends leaves this show without ambition or vigor.
Girdled belts clasped waists, and embellished sandals accompanied each look. Strapless gowns comprised many of the final looks, cut straight across the chest and drawing down close to define the bodice. Red stenciling on one white gown gave the appearance of being pink from afar. Fringe, beading, pleated and distressed chiffon, and feathers added movement to cocktail and evening dresses that conclude the collection. At moments there is a feeling that perhaps a desert getaway is the theme, while stark whites pull in one direction and dark beading and fringe in another. The absence of clear direction does create an appreciation at the prospect of Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia’s upcoming collection for Fall 2017.
Oscar de la Renta Woman Spring Summer 2017